Food, Glorious Food

April 14th, 2010

I’m singing that title by the way,  Food, Glorious Food.  I’m just not computer savvy enough to add the musical notes to let you know that I’m singing- so let me spell it out for you.  San Francisco, as anyone who has been there knows, is a civilized and beautiful place to visit.  And, according to my son Oliver, to live.   People often say that S.F. reminds them of a European city.

For me, San Francisco is a serious food destination.  A real foodie’s paradise is the Ferry Building and this quick trip up here is my first experience.  I kept hearing about it from everyone so I made sure that in my less then 48 hour trip I go see what all the fuss is about.  It IS about something.  Food stalls are everywhere with major finds like the best bread or the best olive oil.  There were seafood restaurants with bar seating and I was hungry and almost jumped at the first sign of fresh seafood and an interesting menu.  But I kept hunting around and found the mother lode in a restaurant called b/l which I’m pretty sure stands for Boulette’s Larder.  I will tell you what I had and I will tell you a few things on the menu that day and I will be going back so fucking fast on my next trip up north.

Seafood egg scramble with tarragon ( halibut, whitefish and scallops ).  Perfect.

Served with a variety of the freshest bread from Acme bread company and yes they have their own stall here so you can buy what you want and yes I came home with a few loafs.  Some other things on the menu.

Celery Root Soup with walnut croutons

Sumac roasted chicken breast with black chickpea and fava flour fritters (little gem hearts, tahini, artichoke puree, hummus)

Arctic char filet (little new potatoes, asparagus, lemon verjus buerre blanc)

Writing this is making me so hungry it’s painful.

Another place I ate in my very short stay is where I must go each trip to S.F. and that is Delfina in the mission district on 18’th street.  It might be Italian because it does have pizza’s but it’s more of a Chez Panisse type restaurant with fresh produce from the local farmers markets in all the recipes.

I couldn’t resist one of my favorite dishes which is burrata on black olive crostini (refer to an earlier piece I wrote called amuse bouche to find a recipe)

We also ordered and loved Jewish-Style Artichokes with lemon and mint.

Some other dishes on the menu that looked great:

Grilled Fresh Calamari with warm white bean salad

Whole Petrale Sole in Acqua Pazza (marble potatoes, salt packed caperberries and Gaeta olives)

Five Dot Ranch Brisket (parslied potatoes and horseradish crème fraiche)

A quick note.  After watching the food network last night I realized the place that I blew off needs mentioning.  It’s called Hog Island Oyster Co. and it is meant to have the very best tasting oysters ever, according to the show Best Things I ever ate.

The Little Things

March 22nd, 2010

with my son Oliver, about to eat an amazing breakfast

I can do so little for my husband and he will thank me. I can make the most thrown together, not interesting mish -mosh of a meal that I haven’t even cooked myself and at the end of that meal, he will not only thank me but HE will clean everything up. That’s what he just said after I threw together some cold chicken that was in the refrigerator. I didn’t even cook that chicken, I picked the thing up at the market yesterday….no, no, no, no, that’s a lie, HE picked it up from the market yesterday, an already fully cooked chicken. I had some side dishes that I picked up today at the Farmers Market. And I did manage to find the left over steamed broccoli and I sautéed it in olive oil, garlic and pine nuts. I told him the truth when I met him. I’m a homeBODY, not a homeMAKER. But I guess since he doesn’t cook, anything he eats is a mystery, a lovely tasting magical mystery. That’s how he acts and I totally understand it. When I woke up this morning, I had an e-mail waiting for me from my son Oliver and I rarely look at the time an e-mail comes in but I did, just curious about how late he stays up. There was one sentence that Oliver wrote. The note read “ when I’m rich I will order a croque-madame at 3:17 am from my personal chef ”.
I thought, I can totally relate, it would be MY “if only I were rich” dream. I would have a private chef.
My husband isn’t THAT gastronomically unlucky because today’s lunch menu was a whole different story. I made pancakes, but not my usual buttermilk pancakes. I love my buttermilk pancakes, the recipe is easy and it always tastes great. When I try other pancake recipes, I am often disappointed. I’m not sure why, but I thought, well today, I will try this other one because it sounded like it could be a good one. It’s not just a good one. It’s great. It’s from a hotel in San Francisco called Campton Place.
I’m just sorry Oliver doesn’t live in L.A. because he’s a big all day breakfast eater and it’s a meal he would have really enjoyed.

Campton Place pancakes recipe
For the Topping (I didn’t make this topping but it sounds amazing)
4 ounces ( Istick) unsalted butter
1 Fuji, Braeburn or Granny Smith apple, peeled, cut, cored and cut into ½ inch cubes
½ cup apple cider

For the Pancakes
1 cup all purpose flour
1 cup cake flour
¼ cup wheat flour
3 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 large eggs
2 cups buttermilk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 ounces (half a stick) unsalted butter, melted

1. Make the Topping Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in medium non-stick skillet over medium high heat. Add the apple and sauté until softened and slightly caramelized, about 8 minutes. Add the cider and cook, stirring for 3 minutes, until the apples are tender and the sauce is slightly thick.
2. Remove from the heat and transfer to a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Process until smooth and allow to cool to room temperature.
3. Beat the remaining 6 tablespoons butter until fluffy. Add the apple mixture and stir well to combine. Set aside.

4. Make the pancakes: Sift together the flours, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cinnamon. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs, then whisk in the buttermilk, vanilla and melted butter. Whisk in the flour mixture and combine well, but do not overmix.
5. Heat a griddle until hot. Ladle the batter onto the hot griddle, about 1/3 cup per pancake. The batter should sizzle quietly when it hits the surface. Cook until bubbles break through, a couple of minutes, and turn the pancakes over. Cook for another minute, until the pancakes are nicely browned on both sides. Transfer to plates and serve hot, or if making all at once, keep warm in a low oven. Serve with the apple topping.

KAISERSCHMARREN, I Know, What The Hell?

March 15th, 2010

Sometimes I wonder what it would have been like to have me as a mother.  That’s not even true, I am only wondering it right now as I’m about to tell  a having me as a mom story.  So, now yeah, I’m kinda wondering about it.

I’m a big foodie.  Hello? If you’re reading this, you would know that already.  Sometimes I have cravings that just have to be sated.  It could be late at night, so, my kids might be in pajamas, I don’t think I ever woke them up to go on this adventure but it would make the story more fascinating.  But, I like the truth, so here it is.

It would be close to 10:00  at night and the kids  were in pj’s planning on a good nights sleep when I would announce they needed to get “all dressed up” because we were going to Spago for Kaisershmarren.  And MY kids  knew what that meant.  The step-kids will be putting me  and my shenanigans in screenplays and short stories for years to come because of these adventures.   We would all then put our finest clothes on, I would pack up the minivan and head to the fanciest restaurant in Beverly Hills.  We were like the Beverly Hillbillies only sans the newfound money.  Clearly I couldn’t afford to really take them all out to eat at Spago but I never liked the real food there anyway, I love the dessert they have called Kaisershmarren. And if you need “sightings” there really are enough when you arrive at 10:00.  In those days Tony Curtis could be found in the bar area where we were ordering and eating our dessert.

I learned the trick of just ordering dessert in the bar area after I realized all I really love to eat at Spago is the Kaiserchmarren.  I know you’re thinking how many times can I say Kaiserchmarren in one little story.  There is no contest; I just like to say it.

One time, before the famous pastry chef Sherry Yard came out with her book that has the recipe, I was introduced to her.  Sometimes when I’m eating at extremely random great restaurants around the world I run into this guy I know named Andy.  He happens to be married to a famous chef from New York and he is a huge foodie that seems to “know the world”.  He was eating with Sherry Yard this one night , and brought her to my table so I could wax poetic about her talent and well, mainly about my love of Kaiserchmarren.   I didn’t hesitate to ask her for the recipe and she assured me that very soon her cookbook would be published and in it I could find the recipe but that she really shouldn’t give it out until then.  Enjoy the recipe, it took me long to transcribe, it looks too hard for me, so if you are in L. A. I suggest going to Spago and ordering it.emma, barnaby

KAISERSCHMARREN Recipe

For the strawberry sauce

2 pounds, 2 ounces strawberries, hulled and quartered

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

¼ cup water

¾ cup fresh orange juice from 3 medium oranges

1 star anise, lightly toasted

1 tablespoon grand marnier

For the pancakes

Softened butter for the pans

9 tablespoons sugar, plus more for dusting the pans

4 egg yolks at room temperature

¼ cup fromage blanc (available at gourmet markets)

¾ cup crème fraiche

2 tablespoons dark rum

¼ cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons fat raisins ( I wouldn’t add the raisins and I don’t taste them in it )

8 large egg whites

½ teaspoon cream of tartar

¼ cup confectioners sugar for dusting

  1. make the strawberry sauce:

set aside 2 cups of strawberries and the 2 tablespoons of sugar In a heavy saucepan, combine the remaining stawberries, the water , the ¾ cup sugar, the orange juice, star anise, and Grand Marnier.  Bring to a boil over medium heat.  Stir occasionally to prevent scorching.  Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes.

  1. Remove from the heat and cover with plastic wrap.  Allow to infuse for 10 minutes, then remove the plastic and discard the star anise.  Cover with plastic again and allow to sit for 2 hours.
  1. Pass the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer and set aside, or refrigerate if not using right away.
  1. Make the pancakes:  Place a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.. Generously butter two 9 or 10 inch 2 inch deep ( recommend pyrex) pie pans or round cake pans.  Add a heaping tablespoon sugar to each pan and tap and turn the pans to dust evenly.  Tap out any excess sugar.
  1. In a medium bowl with a hand mixer, beat the egg yolks with 2 tablespoons of the sugar until the mixture is light and lemony yellow.  Beat in the fromage blanc and scrape down the bowl and beaters.  Beat in the crème fraiche and rum and scrape down the bowl and beaters.  Beat in the flour and raisins. ( eeuu, I so wouldn’t add those raisins )  Set aside.
  1. In a bowl, beat the egg whites on medium-low speed until they foam, then add the cream of tartar.  Turn the speed up to medium and continure to beat while streaming in the remaining 7 tablespoons of sugar, a tablespoon at a time.  Beat the whites to medium stiff peaks.
  1. Whish half the egg whites into the crème fraiche base.  Gently fold in the remaining egg whites.  Divide the batter between the two pans.  Bake for 15 minutes.  Turn the pans 180 degrees and bake for another 5-8 minutes, until puffed and brown.  The center should be pudding-like.
  1. Finish the sauce:  Meanwhile, in a large skillet, bring the strawberry sauce to a boil over high heat.  Add the reserved 2 tablespoons sugar and stir until the sugar has dissolved.  Add the reserved 2 cups strawberries and heat through, then divide among the serving plates.
  1. When the pancakes are done, remove from the oven and,  using a serving spoon, divide each one into 6-8 portions.  Place 2 portions on each plate and dust with confectioners sugar.  You can also arrange all the portions on a platter, with the sauce and serve family style.  Serve immediately.

Read the rest of this entry »

Never Really Been So I Don’t Really Know

February 27th, 2010

me, fairway

I have run an informal, not- for -profit concierge service for years.  I field calls weekly from various friends asking what restaurant to go to for certain occasions.  I like giving this advice, I love sharing information.  From very early on in life I have loved connecting people.

If I’m in a hotel, no matter where or when, I’m often found deep in conversation, in a hot tub, probably about food with strangers.  I once belonged to the Loews Hotel fitness club which was, and is, not terribly expensive and comes with the use of their pool, hot tub, steam room.  It was a great deal and I really love to swim and didn’t have a pool of my own at the time.  Most nights I could be found in the hot tub with random people telling them where to eat while they were in L.A. on vacation.  Great for THEM.

Years ago,  I remember sitting in a hot tub in the Berkshires, at a hotel I recommend by the way,  called Porches.  I told some of my new -found “friends for the next 20 minutes “that I would be spending a lot of time on the upper west side of New York.  They were my east coast counterparts.  They told me all these places I needed to go.  Did I listen? Well, I never forgot but I never really tried all, no make that any of their suggestions.  I am set in my ways and love my Magnolia cupcakes so much that I totally disregarded their recommendation of the “real” best cupcakes in the city.  They had said the name Mitchell London and it sounded like a salon and not a food place so I just ignored it.  The mental note was still there and sometimes I would pass a Mitchell London store as I was headed to a museum or somewhere to eat on the upper east side.  But I just kept ignorant.  And, it was maybe better that way. Read the rest of this entry »

Valentines Day and Gourmet Grandma’s Salmon

February 14th, 2010

forkI fantasized that I could cook meals long before I made it a reality.  Refer to my “About” page.  I never observed my own mothers amazing cooking and had little interest.  She was a true caretaker or maybe I was a hysteric with little interest. I ate her delicious meals and it didn’t matter to me how it ended up on my plate.

I was,  however, a hopeless romantic.  And as each Valentines Day approached even as a teenager I PLANNED to make a heart shaped cake or something special for a boy I loved.  I’m sorry for them that it never happened and if any of them find their way to this blog, I invite those boys/now men to take me up on the offer.  You know who you are and I will make you a damned good cake-come and get it!

The first meal I made of any substance was at the age of 32.  It is Gourmet Grandma’s secret and easy way to cook salmon.  For me, part of the beauty is the little preparation involved- and I almost feel like that little girl waiting for my mothers meal to magically arrive; that’s how easy it is.

Stop fantasizing and start doing, it doesn’t matter at what age you start.  I’m being forced into that as my new motto.

Gourmet Grandma’s salmon recipe

I use two, but fine, take one, I don’t care…sheet of aluminum foil

place the salmon fillet on the sheet of foil

I drizzle good olive oil,  just a touch and only a touch of salt and pepper

Gourmet Grandma used to add julienned carrots, carrots sliced thinly

very thin sliced onion

thin slices of lemon and some dill

you can add any vegetables, I only cook the salmon, no vegetables, onions, dill or lemon

fold the foil into a pouch, nothing genius about this….play with it and figure it out, if I can do it, you can

cook the salmon in the pouch of foil in a 400 oven for 15 minutes

if it’s very thick, you might have to go a few more minutes

Sisterhood of the Katsu-Ya

February 2nd, 2010

It was an evening rich in layers.  NO, not the food, us.  The women with history, betrayal, loyalty, honesty, beauty, humor, love–you get the idea.  Some of us met in grammar school, a few not until high school.  We connect the dots at the Fries family.  At least Debi, Madeline and Janet do.  Cristi and I, well, more through the Cahill family.

We ate most of the “signature” dishes like the tuna tartare on crispy rice.  But I was too busy reading subtext to remember scarfing down the tasty morsels.  We revealed things, yes, but the bubbles above our heads were saying so much more.  We need a month in a rented house in the south of France to unfold all  the stories of our lives for the past, can I say it? Thirty-something years.  When I started to write a shorthand version, it was reading like Peyton Place or perhaps Greek mythology.

Sorry it took me so long to post this piece.  Thank you Madeline for including me in your birthday celebration, it was an honor.

Katsu-Ya has a few locations.  We went to the Brentwood restaurant.  Order all the signature dishes.  My favorite is the baked hand crab roll.

The Not Best Kept Secret in L.A……Giorgio’s

January 25th, 2010

It actually has a different name, some cockamamie name like Giorgio Baldi.

There’s a story behind that, I just don’t know what it is.  There’s probably a LOT of stories behind this restaurant.  And some rumors like that this restaurant first started right here in Pacific Palisades. It didn’t quite “make it” here and moved to it’s permanent and quite successful location in Santa Monica canyon.  Which of course, proves my conspiracy theory about the Palisades  (refer to earlier piece called conspiracy theories).giorgio's to go

Is this ghetto? When I’m craving the pasta from Giorgios , I head down the hill and pick it up to go.  That’s what I did last night.  The rain throws us off here in Los Angeles, so much so that we won’t head out to restaurants or go anywhere for that matter.  And it really isn’t safe, there’s some serious flooding in the streets, trees tend to fall over and even onto cars. So we stay in.  I realized last night, not so when it comes to the amazing and yes famous Giorgio’s.  It was getting packed at 6:30 when I was picking up my to go order.  I was impressed with that fact.  And I too would have been there braving the rain soaked streets to get the best meal L.A. has to offer.  But no one was interested in going out so I ordered it in.  But the truth is I often order in as I said, when I’m craving the penne with langoustines in a slightly spicy tomato sauce.  I hate to go food or home delivery so this is the only place I would ever pick up from. Read the rest of this entry »

Amuse Bouche

January 18th, 2010

Tonight I really amused my bouche.  And, I hope I amused my husbands and even Domy’s bouche.  And yes I do love that it all sounds very naughty.  I’m glad to say it’s really G-rated, is French and literally means it entertains the mouth.  It is a small appetizer served at some great restaurants. When I am served an Amuse Bouche in a restaurant, I often get very greedy and ask for more.  Maybe it’s greedy AND rude, I’m never sure.  And yet, I still do it.  Just did it the other night at Fraiche in Santa Monica when they gave me one small bite of the best caesar salad I’ve ever had.  Ten of those amuse bouches could have made a nice little meal for me.

The appetizer I made for tonight was crostini served with an olive tapenade and burrata cheese.  How simple it is to make and how impressive it is to serve.

my amuse bouche

I totally copied from one of these restaurants, both served a version of this dish.  It was either Delfina Restaurant on 18’th street in the Mission district of San Francisco or Rustic Canyon Restaurant on Wilshire in Santa Monica, California.

Burrata cheese and olive Tapenade Crostini recipe

Cut slices of your favorite french bread

drizzle with olive oil and fresh garlic

toast lightly in oven, I do 400 degrees and turn it over after a few minutes, two minutes on each side is good

sorry but I buy my olive tapenade from a local gourmet market but I’m sure you can chop a bunch of black olives to make your own

I get Burrata cheese from the same market, Burrata, Italian meaning is buttered, it’s really mozzarella and cream so you can just use a very good mozzarella

put the olive tapenade on the crostini first and then burrata and blow everyone away

Sleep Reports, High Drama, and One Great Meal

January 2nd, 2010

Tre Lune

Years ago when I was first dating my husband, I would stumble out of bed, hours after he started his day and announce my daily sleep report.  It was and is always detailed with what time I had to pee( sometimes up to three times a night) to what noise in or outside of the house was disturbing to my restless nature.    I often zero in on something negative and let my brain get stuck there, like an old warped record.  Last night in an expensive and lovely bed and breakfast in Santa Barbara was no different.  I was rendered sleepless by various ambient noises that I now block out in my own home with white sound.  And this was no just semi-sleepless night, this was a full blown insomniac’d out, never even drift off for a moment of peace.  The trying ended with the bing of a text, it’s not like me but apparently I had forgotten to turn my cell phone off.  After living through losing both parents and waiting for the possible call, I gave up being available during the night with a phone call.  I unplug, turn off, anything to aid the possibility of slumber.

There is a huge, stay away from trigger for a person with insomnia and that is a plan in the morning.  I don’t make plans for anything, including construction on my home anytime before 11:00 am.

The bed and breakfast called for their gourmet breakfast from 8:30-9:30 which I’m sure is the reason I was rendered entirely sleepless.  No one but another person with insomnia would be able to relate to this.  I was quite determined not to miss the lemon souffled pancakes with thyme and lemon infused melon balls as the first course.  No fucking way was I losing out on this meal.  Ask me if I remember it?  I was there, I barely remember now, even though it was earlier today, gritting my teeth from anxiety and humorless.

The focul point of the large former barn room at our bed and breakfast is the big bathtub right there in the room.  My husband went out for a walk and I took a long, sleepy  bath.  I was then ready for lunch with the girls! We went to Opal at both the hotel and my friend Kayla’s suggestion.  I remember that we were there, I know we spent most of our time laughing our heads off about all of our “70’s” experiences together and separate.  I do not remember the food that well.   I do recall that Kayla’s lunch choice of grilled salmon in a curry sauce was the clear winner. I tried it and it was far better then the cobb salad I shared with my other old friend Cathy. Read the rest of this entry »

When All Else Fails, Bake

December 19th, 2009

me and michael at sylvias soul food restaurant

That Thanksgiving Day turkey thing didn’t work out that well.  I hate that pressure.  I like that I know I can do one thing and do it well.  Bake.  My baking never looks all that “mahvelous”.  The cakes I make tend to look a bit like the leaning tower of Pisa and yet, they taste oh so good- if I don’t say so myself.  A very creative friend in the hood, Simone once suggested I start a business of private cake baking because she’s such a fan.  Simone came up with the name of the business (“I baked you a cake”) and totally approved of the fact that my cakes are so imperfect.  She said, she goes to buy baked goods from local bakeries but that none of those cakes, though they look so perfect tasted as amazing as mine.  I was so flattered that for the next few years, I called when I finished a new good cake to offer she and her family a big ass chunk.

One of her families and my favorites is a red velvet cake that I do not dye red.  My husband is not a big fan because; well, because it’s just not his thing.  But also, he’s not a fan because the color is sort of the color of a spice cake.  He calls the color grey.  I keep insisting it’s a light chocolate cake color.  Regardless of how it looks, it’s one of my best recipes.  It comes from Sylvia’s soul food restaurant in Harlem

red velvet cake