Archive for the ‘Reviews’ Category

The (meant to be) Wedding of the Summer

Sunday, October 3rd, 2010

Tory, the bride, Augie the bridesmaid

In August, I attended my daughter Augie’s best friend’s wedding. In fact, I call Tory my surrogate daughter. When I travel with Augie and Tory, I refer to them both as my daughters.
We met Tory, or rather I spotted Tory, one day when Augie was in first or second grade. She was a tiny thing, a lot like Aug, but she also looked a little lost and in need of a friend. I insisted Augie invite her home that first day. When we called, her mother said yes, provided we also bring home Tory’s brother Jeremy. After this, Tory spent most of her time at our house, on weekends and on plenty of school nights. We “adopted” her as our own.

my daughters, Augie is the birth daughter

Her mother moved to Hawaii with all three of Tory’s brothers and during those years she would spend most of the summer with us. Then her mom moved all of her kids to northern California. But whenever Tory got the feeling that she wanted to be with us, she would hop on a bus and a plane, all alone at 13, leaving a note behind for her mother.
Tory was always the most independent and capable thing; she emancipated herself at 16 years old, graduated college at 19, and just bought her first home at 24. No help from anyone, not ever.
I feel I have to be discreet with Tory’s life in the way that I am not at all with my own life, which is a big open book. The book, “Glass Castle” comes to mind. Should she read it, I know it would resonate with her. Suffice it to say that the family she might not have had then, she has now created in her adoring husband Brian and all of their mutual close friends.
Though Augie had cancelled her wedding this summer (refer to earlier blog piece, “No More Trouble in Paradise or to Marry or Not to Marry,” June, 2010) and was still faintly stunned from her breakup, we rooted and cheered (crying a lot) our Tory along as she put on the most incredible wedding; everything orchestrated perfectly by—who else?–Tory.
The wedding was held at her uncle’s big-ass lakefront home in Tahoe. What a setting! But what a hellacious drive from Reno. Screaming from frustration in hours of senseless traffic while searching for bathrooms…. we finally arrived at our oh-so-groovy hotel in Truckee and were happy campers. On the drive there, we spotted what would become our local spot — and we went there every day for a well deserved meal. It’s the really cool, retro Jax Truckee Diner. It is housed in an original 1940’s diner in downtown Truckee next to the railroad tracks. It appears to have been either updated or really well kept up. Every night after the long day of wedding festivities ( Augie was a bridesmaid, and I was introduced as “the second mother of the bride” ) we would end up at Jax, hungry and fatigued. I would always order the same thing because it was so friggin good — sliders. The menu has all kinds of gourmet choices as well as your typical diner comfort food. I wondered why they would be filled to capacity at 9:30 every night while my own hometown of Pacific Palisades is dead by 9:00, and is starting to resemble a ghost town with all the restaurant & retail store closings. I discovered that Jax was featured on the Food Network show “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives,” hence its immense popularity. The day we left Truckee we ate elsewhere — and speaking of ghosts, we met a real one — but that story will have to wait for another blog.

in Hawaii with my daughters, Augie and Tory

with the girls in Hawaii

Prune, My Kinda Retro

Sunday, July 11th, 2010

The East Village is, was and always will be my hood in the big apple. Sure, I now stay on the Upper West Side and much to the dismay of my husband, I gravitate downtown. He will often say “downtown again?”
My friend Peggy always lived on the Lower East Side and she was my friend-to-stay-with in New York. It was really seedy and exciting then, the 70’s. It’s been totally gentri-yuppie-fied in recent years.
The Hells Angels owned the block — or maybe even blocks — around where Peg lived. And each day as I ventured out, one or another of them would ask me to fetch him something like matches perhaps -from the corner store. So I did. Who wouldn’t? It was always more of a command — and I was to obey.
One hot summer night when Peggy and I were feeling playful and fearless, I actually hopped on the back of Mike the Bike’s Harley for a quick spin around Alphabet City. She was on the bike of another Hells Angel whose name I cannot recall; I only remember his toothless grin and his notoriety from the Altamont infamy of some years earlier.
I am not the biggest adventurer — in fact, I’m not adventurous at all. But I describe myself as a person with the opposite of xenophobia. I love foreigners and strangers. In those days, I’d been known to see a street filled with Puerto Ricans, dancing to the beat of their segregated world, and I would jump in to dance wildly with them. But I also backed out quickly when I sensed danger (clearly, they were xenophobic).

Peggy and I, east village, early 80's

In the 80’s, I moved to New York with my newborn baby Oliver and the ex. Guess where? The East Village. Always fascinating, many other like-minded souls. And hookers in front of the building where we lived. Colorful and familiar. Saint Marks Place, just steps away, was my world and I still love it. Guess I should mention that my father grew up there so it has an even deeper meaning /history for me. (more…)

New Japanese Find For You and Me

Thursday, July 1st, 2010

What is wrong with me? Why do I drive past intriguing places and keep on driving? Or, why do I keep going to the same places because I know them, they are familiar and safe?
My friend, another foodie, Andrea, had made a plan with me last night to try a Japanese restaurant. Then, she kept reading reviews online that scared her straight. This new Japanese usually costs $100 per person. She called me ahead of time to warn me and then told me she really likes this other place on Sawtelle. So now we really have two choices. When I hopped in her car, she navigated her way around the city in such a way as to end up directly in front of the alternative restaurant and not the original terribly expensive restaurant. I still don’t know whether she did that on purpose, but I was hungry and said, lets just go in there. I had seen it before and it called to me. When she mentioned a place on Sawtelle I just thought it was Hide Sushi and I do already go there all the time. I like it but probably not as much as I love Hamasaku, which is my absolute favorite Japanese restaurant in all of Los Angeles. It too is a bit pricey and a bit show bizzy with all the rolls named after investors or regulars and those famous people are always scattered around the restaurant eating the very rolls that sport their name.
This new place that we walked into has a green wall surrounding it, my favorite green, a sort of an olive green. Already a good sign. Then you walk into a courtyard with a sushi/ish bar surrounding a fire pit. So cool. We opted to sit inside, what is up with this summer gloom? Andrea ordered for us at first. She asked what fresh sashimi they had. I have eternal mercury poisoning (yeah, yeah, another blog) so since most choices were tuna related we went for the Tazmanian salmon. I cannot even tell you how fresh and perfect the choice was. I mean I can tell you, I just did!
Then we ordered a few fried things. Popcorn shrimp with spicy mayonnaise. Fried oysters. Just as I was starting to feel a little fry- food -nervous, the adorable waitress with the quirky great sense of humor came over to say that since we really like FRIED FOOD!….we should order the special of the day, soft shell crabs. Then the waitress really laughed as she told us she was impressed with us for ordering so many fried dishes since most people in L.A. are so afraid of it. That only made me feel like I needed to balance this meal with vegetables so we got a seaweed salad.
Then I told the waitress I was completely in love with her and wanted her to date my son Oliver. She is just unique enough, like him. That’s not really true, first she said something about her boyfriend and then I said “oh, that’s too bad you have one because I was going to set you up with my son Oliver.”
Before asking for the check we noticed these small colorful almost Moroccan looking glasses that maybe they served Sake in. I asked to purchase a few. And yes, I have been known in the past to admire what a waitress is wearing and ask to buy the uniform and have it put on my bill. So, this was really nothing new to me and I now own a few of those special glasses. When I walked in with them last night, my daughter accused me of being a hoarder. Guilty, maybe.
The name of the restaurant is Bar Hayama. The address is 1803 Sawtelle Blvd. The name of the waitress is Yumi. In her own words, ” my name is Yumi, you know, like you and me”.
A few other things on the menu: Crispy Rice and Tuna with Balsamic Vinegar Sauce
Sauteed Lobster and Mushroom
Simmered Whole Onion with ground meat amber sauce
Poke Hawaii

No More Trouble in Paradise or…To Marry or Not to Marry, that is the Question

Saturday, June 12th, 2010

The North Shore of Kauai has always held deep meaning for me. It was where I escaped on my first adventure as a newly single woman raising three kids alone. That was nearly twenty years ago. (And it was where, in the early 70’s, I filmed a Lipton Tea commercial — another blog, another time). I was suddenly thrust into single life just as my dad-the-sage had long predicted during the twelve years I spent with Father of My Children.
Our blissful wedding, almost nine years earlier to the day that I was to leave on my Hawaiian adventure, was held on Pico Boulevard in the parking lot of Rent-a-Wreck. Talk about an ominous sign (See blissful wedding day photo.) During the ceremony, various people and probably even my own dad were loudly laying odds the marriage would never last. After the split, I found out no one present gave it more than six months.
On the fateful morning of the Big Reveal (I picked up a phone extension to hear F.O.M.C. listening to The Other Woman reciting love poetry, (GAG) ), I called my dad to tell him that he was right about Mr. Right. He barely reacted. He then informed me that my eternal student/out-of-work husband had once hidden 18 thousand dollars in dad’s bank account and had obviously forgotten about it. My dad told me to help myself to the money.
Eighteen thousand dollars sounded pretty good since it was eighteen thousand more than I had at the time, but I only took nine, choosing to split it with F.O.M.C. So young, so honest, so foolish! Now, with nine thousand in hand, I decided that my kids and I needed ten days in Kauai to recover from a broken marriage. Anything left over would go toward the down payment on a new car. (Yes, this was back when there might be something left from $9,000 after a Hawaiian vacation.) Things were looking up already. I called in a favor from my friend Sherry, whose family owned a hotel on the island. $60 dollars a night, not bad.
I never told my kids that we were going away because I love to surprise them. The night before we were to leave, I waited till they were asleep to pack their bags. Then at 6:00 AM, I woke them to announce we were heading to paradise. It was thrilling.
I brought my gourmet meal to eat on the plane. I was way ahead of my time in doing that. And I’m not exaggerating when I say gourmet. (On a recent flight, I brought caviar and the woman next to me said, “You really travel in style”. The snack cost nearly as much as the coach ticket.) But I let my kids eat the airplane food, since I figured it was okay with them. Airline meals were so lousy they really did us all a favor to end them.
To land on the island of Kauai is like encountering a mirage. Five hours of flying, then you touch down, stepping into beauty and wonder and fragrances so magical they can’t be real. At this point, you’re probably hungry, and if you’re headed where we usually are — the North Shore– you stop at Ono Burger. It’s a not-so-fast-food stand on the ocean side of the road next to a mini-mart, and it’s really good. All the locals go there and you can’t go wrong with whatever you order. And if you do go wrong, who cares? You’re in Hawaii. You sit and eat at a picnic table surrounded by wild chickens and feral cats, and feed them. Everybody does.
On that trip I took my kids on a sunset cruise adventure — obviously suffering a memory lapse about my history of seasickness. The captain of the boat fell instantly in love with me, I’m not sure why, but it probably had something to do with certain men being hardwired to take care of women. I’m extra-small and some men just have a visceral reaction to protect me. (Others step on me – see F.O.M.C.) The attention from Cap’n Jack did a lot for a girl who’d just fled a loveless marriage. But all the Good Captain got in return was vomit on his shoes. Finally, he told me that I needed to jump overboard. At first, I thought he was kidding, but he said it would steady my equilibrium or something and at that point I would have done anything for relief. I jumped. My kids stared as I treaded water, as surprised as the curious sea turtles circling me.
Cap’n Jack, flirt or nurturer that he was, dove in and stuck it out with me. He had his hands all over me, whispering sexy things in my ear. He completely ignored the other guests on the cruise, which was great for my ego but not so great for them. It occurred to me that he might be a bit of a gigolo who thought I was a rich young woman traveling with a babysitter, as I was. Well, then too bad for him. I had just spent my last nine thousand. But for a fleeting moment, I imagined moving to Kauai and a happy-ever-after life as a sea captain’s wife. As you can see, I was clearly starved for attention.
Some nights I would take the kids to Lafferty’s, the amazing local ice cream store. If you go, get the Kona Coffee. But all the flavors are great. It was there, in a bit of foreshadowing of my soon-to-be future life, that I spotted an unusual Rastafarian-looking dog… that I became, not out of character for me, quite taken with. The owner said it was a Portuguese Water Dog. He was chocolate in color and a spectacular-looking creature.
Soon after the well-deserved Kauai vacation with my kids I went on my first date with my future husband. No, he was not a Rastafarian. But he did have a Portuguese Water Dog. That dog, Moby, would also become my dog. Everything fell into place. (more…)

Chasing the Dragon (I mean the burger)

Saturday, May 8th, 2010

Going on the hunt for the “best-of” meals can be a lot like an addict after a fix.  I remember years ago seeing someone I knew in Ruth’s Chris Steak House.   I watched him from afar as he ordered his steak.   He was well into his fifties at this point, and you just knew his doctor wouldn’t approve.  When it arrived, his eyes were as big as saucers and he even rubbed his hands together before picking up fork & knife.  He dove into it like it was his last meal on Earth.  It was really something to behold, and I have never forgotten it.

I hope I never come off as a “know it all” about food but I feel I do know where to get the best burger in L.A., and for me, sorry folks, but it ain’t the Apple Pan.  It is (or maybe right now I can say was) at the Beverly Hills Hotel coffee shop.

My addiction in life is food, strictly.  There are no crossover addictions.  Facebook for an ex-addict friend of mine became dangerous.  She couldn’t casually walk back to her bedroom without the computer calling to her to “check”.  Then she would get lost in the Facebook world of other people’s comments and photos and all that Facebook has to offer.  Hours later, she would finally drag herself away from her computer and catch a bit of sleep.  She unhooked herself quickly.  I miss her presence on Facebook, but she’s a “real” friend, so I actually see her and talk to her whenever I want.

Yesterday, I was doing my five-minute stroll onto my homepage when I noticed that my childhood friend Joy had said something about the best burger ever.  Well, you can only imagine how that caught me eye.   Joy’s posts often get my attention, but none like yesterday.  Where was this amazing burger? I wanted to know.  Her reply: “Fred Segal in Santa Monica,” not usually known for its gourmet cuisine.

The following morning I had one goal in mind.  But first, I had to find which Santa Monica Fred Segal was serving these rumored Best Burgers in Town.  For anyone venturing out, it’s the original or East side Fred Segal.  The place is called Umami and it’s where that little coffee house once was near the parking lot.  And it’s packed.  Clearly the world had heard about this place before me.  I took my son Barnaby, who, several months ago had sworn off burgers after hearing horrific details about them in the documentary “Food, Inc.”

I found a table and scanned the room for the reactions of people eating, and   I’m not exaggerating too much when I use the word orgasmic.   Were smoking allowed, some would have lit up afterwards.  I got very excited, but needed to order just the right burger to make me happy, and so I did.  A cheeseburger–leave the sundried tomatoes and carmelized onion on the side—but keep that special sauce.

Barnaby couldn’t resist and broke his burger-boycott by ordering exactly what I did.  And we shared onion rings.  Orgasmic – can you use that word when you’re dining with your son?   What the hell.

And, just when I thought lunch and life couldn’t get any better, we ran into one of my best friends’ ex-husbands (just one of many exes of many friends).  So, a big shout-out to Tom who picked up the check!

Favorite Haunts

Wednesday, April 28th, 2010

I have a few favorite haunts right now and I believe it’s the time to share so here I go.  In Los Angeles and sorry, but only the westside,  I have a few restaurants that I love for more than just the amazing food.  They aren’t the biggest secret but I’m certain that word of mouth is the reason all are usually packed with regulars.

One is the Nook or is it Nook Neighborhood Bistro? My friends and I just simply call it the Nook.  It’s small and tucked into a corner ( hence the name) of a shopping mall on the corner of Barry and Santa Monica Blvd. in West Los Angeles.  The food is fresh and very good and I especially like their french fries.  But, what I really like about this restaurant and the others I’m about to out is that they are” neighborhood” restaurants.    The owner, Brian,  is present and lovely and a great restaurateur.  The aioli mayonnaise is the second or is that third now reason that I love the Nook.

Next not so new find that I’m ready to reveal is Akasha in Culver City.  I love her.  I’m starting with that.  The chef and owner is a famous private chef for years by the name of Akasha and she has talent in the kitchen and a warmth that makes you feel like you’ve known her a hundred years, or as my dad would often say ” I know him 40 years” Say it with a heavy New York accent and you can sound exactly like him. It’s very healthy, all fresh farmers market ingredients and dishes like Red Quinoa and Edamame with market vegetables and lemongrass tofu.  You get the idea, it’s VERY  healthy but it’s tastes nothing like healthy food usually tastes to me.  Not like cardboard is basically what I’m saying.  The cannellini bean hummus is truly out of this world.  And here is a main draw that will be the common theme here. Akasha’s husband is Alan Schulman, also an owner and he is always there welcoming guests, bringing you extra goodies (freebies) to try.  I am loving these two restaurants for the old fashioned quality they have with their owners being such good restaurateurs.

Last one I’m giving away today is Blue Plate Oysterette in Santa Monica on Ocean Ave.  Still so new to me, but I go at least once a week.  I’m saying still so new because the name of the guy who manages the place just escaped me.  It’s like Silvano or something.  I’m making that up but it will have to do.  He has that charm that I love of someone getting to know you and realizing that you are a regular.  He called me an evangelist because I’m so out there spreading the word.  Saying that to me is when he really sealed the deal.  The food is very good and if you love oysters, you definitely have to go because they have some very fresh good ones.  Again, here I do love their french fries, oy, how old am I that I keep talking about the fries in these restaurants? And fries with mayonnaise no less.  Sorry, that’s the way I like my fries.  They have a lobster sandwich on brioche but I’m digging the ahi tuna sandwich on brioche just as much.

Food, Glorious Food

Wednesday, April 14th, 2010

I’m singing that title by the way,  Food, Glorious Food.  I’m just not computer savvy enough to add the musical notes to let you know that I’m singing- so let me spell it out for you.  San Francisco, as anyone who has been there knows, is a civilized and beautiful place to visit.  And, according to my son Oliver, to live.   People often say that S.F. reminds them of a European city.

For me, San Francisco is a serious food destination.  A real foodie’s paradise is the Ferry Building and this quick trip up here is my first experience.  I kept hearing about it from everyone so I made sure that in my less then 48 hour trip I go see what all the fuss is about.  It IS about something.  Food stalls are everywhere with major finds like the best bread or the best olive oil.  There were seafood restaurants with bar seating and I was hungry and almost jumped at the first sign of fresh seafood and an interesting menu.  But I kept hunting around and found the mother lode in a restaurant called b/l which I’m pretty sure stands for Boulette’s Larder.  I will tell you what I had and I will tell you a few things on the menu that day and I will be going back so fucking fast on my next trip up north.

Seafood egg scramble with tarragon ( halibut, whitefish and scallops ).  Perfect.

Served with a variety of the freshest bread from Acme bread company and yes they have their own stall here so you can buy what you want and yes I came home with a few loafs.  Some other things on the menu.

Celery Root Soup with walnut croutons

Sumac roasted chicken breast with black chickpea and fava flour fritters (little gem hearts, tahini, artichoke puree, hummus)

Arctic char filet (little new potatoes, asparagus, lemon verjus buerre blanc)

Writing this is making me so hungry it’s painful.

Another place I ate in my very short stay is where I must go each trip to S.F. and that is Delfina in the mission district on 18’th street.  It might be Italian because it does have pizza’s but it’s more of a Chez Panisse type restaurant with fresh produce from the local farmers markets in all the recipes.

I couldn’t resist one of my favorite dishes which is burrata on black olive crostini (refer to an earlier piece I wrote called amuse bouche to find a recipe)

We also ordered and loved Jewish-Style Artichokes with lemon and mint.

Some other dishes on the menu that looked great:

Grilled Fresh Calamari with warm white bean salad

Whole Petrale Sole in Acqua Pazza (marble potatoes, salt packed caperberries and Gaeta olives)

Five Dot Ranch Brisket (parslied potatoes and horseradish crème fraiche)

A quick note.  After watching the food network last night I realized the place that I blew off needs mentioning.  It’s called Hog Island Oyster Co. and it is meant to have the very best tasting oysters ever, according to the show Best Things I ever ate.

Never Really Been So I Don’t Really Know

Saturday, February 27th, 2010

me, fairway

I have run an informal, not- for -profit concierge service for years.  I field calls weekly from various friends asking what restaurant to go to for certain occasions.  I like giving this advice, I love sharing information.  From very early on in life I have loved connecting people.

If I’m in a hotel, no matter where or when, I’m often found deep in conversation, in a hot tub, probably about food with strangers.  I once belonged to the Loews Hotel fitness club which was, and is, not terribly expensive and comes with the use of their pool, hot tub, steam room.  It was a great deal and I really love to swim and didn’t have a pool of my own at the time.  Most nights I could be found in the hot tub with random people telling them where to eat while they were in L.A. on vacation.  Great for THEM.

Years ago,  I remember sitting in a hot tub in the Berkshires, at a hotel I recommend by the way,  called Porches.  I told some of my new -found “friends for the next 20 minutes “that I would be spending a lot of time on the upper west side of New York.  They were my east coast counterparts.  They told me all these places I needed to go.  Did I listen? Well, I never forgot but I never really tried all, no make that any of their suggestions.  I am set in my ways and love my Magnolia cupcakes so much that I totally disregarded their recommendation of the “real” best cupcakes in the city.  They had said the name Mitchell London and it sounded like a salon and not a food place so I just ignored it.  The mental note was still there and sometimes I would pass a Mitchell London store as I was headed to a museum or somewhere to eat on the upper east side.  But I just kept ignorant.  And, it was maybe better that way. (more…)

Sisterhood of the Katsu-Ya

Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010

It was an evening rich in layers.  NO, not the food, us.  The women with history, betrayal, loyalty, honesty, beauty, humor, love–you get the idea.  Some of us met in grammar school, a few not until high school.  We connect the dots at the Fries family.  At least Debi, Madeline and Janet do.  Cristi and I, well, more through the Cahill family.

We ate most of the “signature” dishes like the tuna tartare on crispy rice.  But I was too busy reading subtext to remember scarfing down the tasty morsels.  We revealed things, yes, but the bubbles above our heads were saying so much more.  We need a month in a rented house in the south of France to unfold all  the stories of our lives for the past, can I say it? Thirty-something years.  When I started to write a shorthand version, it was reading like Peyton Place or perhaps Greek mythology.

Sorry it took me so long to post this piece.  Thank you Madeline for including me in your birthday celebration, it was an honor.

Katsu-Ya has a few locations.  We went to the Brentwood restaurant.  Order all the signature dishes.  My favorite is the baked hand crab roll.

The Not Best Kept Secret in L.A……Giorgio’s

Monday, January 25th, 2010

It actually has a different name, some cockamamie name like Giorgio Baldi.

There’s a story behind that, I just don’t know what it is.  There’s probably a LOT of stories behind this restaurant.  And some rumors like that this restaurant first started right here in Pacific Palisades. It didn’t quite “make it” here and moved to it’s permanent and quite successful location in Santa Monica canyon.  Which of course, proves my conspiracy theory about the Palisades  (refer to earlier piece called conspiracy theories).giorgio's to go

Is this ghetto? When I’m craving the pasta from Giorgios , I head down the hill and pick it up to go.  That’s what I did last night.  The rain throws us off here in Los Angeles, so much so that we won’t head out to restaurants or go anywhere for that matter.  And it really isn’t safe, there’s some serious flooding in the streets, trees tend to fall over and even onto cars. So we stay in.  I realized last night, not so when it comes to the amazing and yes famous Giorgio’s.  It was getting packed at 6:30 when I was picking up my to go order.  I was impressed with that fact.  And I too would have been there braving the rain soaked streets to get the best meal L.A. has to offer.  But no one was interested in going out so I ordered it in.  But the truth is I often order in as I said, when I’m craving the penne with langoustines in a slightly spicy tomato sauce.  I hate to go food or home delivery so this is the only place I would ever pick up from. (more…)